Let's take our crocheting skills to the next level and combine overlay mosaic crochet with granny squares! This way we can crochet in-the-round and eliminate all ends and border stitches, while creating some very dynamic designs that look awesome from every angle. The instructions below will show you how to crochet a foundation square, so we can begin adding our mosaic crochet patterns to it, granny square style! Begin with your background color, cast on and chain 4. Insert your hook into the first chain and slip stitch to join. 2. Chain 1. Crocheting over the tail, add 8 SCs into the center of the circle. 3. Join the round from the back. To do so, pull up a loop and take out your hook. Turn the circle around so you're looking at the back, and insert your hook from the back into both loops of the first stitch in the round after the first chain. (We're joining these rounds using the same technique as crocheting in the round with hidden seams!) 4. Place the loop back on to the hook and tighten the loop. 5. Slip stitch. Turn the circle around so you're looking at it from the front again. 6. Chain 1. Add your first corner stitch into both loops of the first stitch in front of your hook. All stitches in this round will be crocheted into BOTH LOOPS. Corner Stitches: SC, chain 1, SC back into the same stitch. 7. The corner stitches on the first and second rounds may be hard to see, so I recommend using stitch markers to mark the chain stitch in each corner as you work through these rounds. SC into the next stitch. Continue adding corner stitches and 1 SC, around the circle to the end. Finish the round with 1 SC in the last stitch. You will have 1 chain in each corner with 3 SCs between. 8. Join round 1 from the back, following the same steps as above. Pull up a loop, remove your hook, and turn the square so you're looking at the back. 9. Insert your hook into both loops of the first stitch of the corner stitch (before the chain marked with the stitch marker). Place the loop back on to the hook and tighten the loop. Slip stitch. Turn the square around so you're looking at it from the front again. 10. Tighten the working yarn in the back. Cast on with your next color and slip stitch. Tighten the first color again. Chain 1. 11. All SC stitches for all remaining rounds will be crocheted into the top back loops only. Each round will start with corner stitches. The chain stitch marked with the stitch marker is where you will add your first corner. Corner Stitches: SC, chain 1, SC back into the same stitch. 12. Add 1 SC into the next 3 stitches up to the chain stitch at the corner (marked with the stitch marker). In each chain stitch add the 3 corner stitches. Continue adding 3 SCs and corner stitches to the end of the round. 13. The last stitch of the round may be hard to see because it's curved towards the back and positioned tightly to the first corner stitch of the round. See the stitch placement of the last SC stitch above. This occurs every other round when adding SCs. Don't forget to count your stitches to make sure you don't miss this last stitch. 14. Join the round from the back, into both loops of the first stitch before the chain stitch. 15. Here is what round 2 should look like. You will have 1 chain in each corner with 5 SCs between. Slip stitch the next color, tighten the old color and chain 1. 16. Begin round 3 with corner stitches in the first chain stitch of the previous round. 17. For round 3 we will be adding overlay DC stitches into the row below. Looking at the photo above, you will see there are 5 green stitches across the top to the corner, and only 3 gold stitches below. We want to have the same number of stitches in each row, so we will add 2 extra DCs to the gold row. In the row below, add 2 DCs into the first stitch, 1 DC in the second stitch, and 2 DCs into the third stitch. Continue adding corner stitches into the chain stitch of the green round, and 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs, in the gold round between the corners to the end. 18. Connect the round from the back and switch colors. At this point it's a lot easier to see the corner stitches so you won't need the stitch markers. Just remember, connect each round into both loops of the first stitch, and all corner stitches will be added to the middle chain stitch. 19. We're almost ready to start reading the chart and adding our mosaic crochet pattern to the square! We just need to add 1 more round of SC stitches and corner stitches. As with all rounds, start with corner stitches in the middle chain stitch. For this round you will add 7 SCs across to each corner. 20. The very last stitch in this round, once again, might be a little tough to see. This stitch is curved towards the back (same as in step 13). Join the round from the back, switch colors, tighten, and chain 1. Here's the completed square, and now we are ready to follow the mosaic crochet chart! "Metamorphosis" Mosaic Crochet Deaths Head Moth Pattern coming January 26th 2024! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! Thanks for reading and happy crocheting! -Sixel Visit my shop page for more mosaic crochet patterns

Watch the full video tutorial here Mosaic crochet in the round allows you to create anything from bags, to hats, sweaters, and even pillows, without using border stitches. You're working continuously around and never have to cut your yarn, which means no tail ends! With this newly updated tutorial I'll show you how to join your rounds and switch colors from the back, so the seam is practically invisible! Getting Started To begin, we will start with a foundation chain, and a SC foundation row. Follow the instructions in your pattern to find the appropriate number of chains to start your foundation chain. ​1. After you finish your foundation chain, chain 1 and SC into the second chain from the hook. Add all SC stitches to the end. 2. Straighten your SC row so there are no twists, and position the beginning of the row around to the front to create a circle. To keep the circle from twisting and separating, you can use a stitch marker or a pin to connect the bottom of the circle temporarily. 3. ​Pull up a wide loop and remove your hook. To join the round, instead of inserting your hook from the front, insert your hook from the back under both loops of the first stitch. It's a lot easier to get your hook in from the back, so let's turn it around so we're looking at the back of the circle. 4. Insert your hook and place the loop around the hook. Pull the yarn to tighten it around the hook. ​5. Slip stitch. Turn the circle around so you're looking at the front again. ​6. Cast on with your next color and slip stitch. ​7. Pull the yarn from the previous color to tighten. Be sure the loop is between the hook and the knot. ​8. Chain 1. Your first stitch to begin round 2 will be directly below your hook. This round is all SC stitches in the top back loops to the end. 9. At the end of round 2, join and switch colors just as we did for round 1: Pull up a loop, insert your hook under both loops of the first stitch from the back, tighten the loop on the hook, and slip stitch. Slip stitch with your new color, tighten both strands and chain 1. 10. Now we're ready to begin round 3. For this round we will begin following our mosaic crochet chart. Your first stitch will be directly below your hook, or 1 row below in the same color. Closing the Bottom Gap At the bottom of your crochet round you'll notice there's a little gap at the bottom. This is because we never joined the foundation chain at the beginning. It's much easier to make sure a SC row isn't twisted as opposed to a single chain, so this is why I like to leave that chain disconnected until we have a SC row finished. At any point in your project you can stop and close this up. Using the tail end from the very beginning of the chain, we will weave the tail across the other side and back in order to pull that bottom chain together. To begin, turn your crochet round upside down so the bottom of your project is facing up. 1. ​Insert your hook from the front, through the first stitch on the opposite side of the tail end. ​2. Hook the tail and pull it all the way through the stitch. Then insert your hook from the back through the first stitch on the other side. ​​3. Hook the tail and pull it all the way through the stitch. Turn your crochet round so you're looking at the inside where you pulled the tail end through. ​4. To secure the tail, tie it to the other tail end on the inside with a square knot. Weave in the ends to the inside to finish. Finishing To fasten off after joining your last round, chain 1, tighten, cut a tail end (about 4") and pull through. Cut the other color as well, leaving a 4" tail end. Turn your project so you're looking at the tail ends on the inside. Tie both tails together with a square knot, and weave in the ends to the inside. If your tail ends are separated by a few rows and not next to each other, weave the last tail along the seam closer to the other so they can be tied together. ​Here's a sample of a completed project crocheted in the round, looking directly at the seam. Can you see it?? You can see a little bit of the seam here, where a round begins and ends with DC stitches. You'll also see this slight separation if you're folding the tube flat to make a bag or pouch. ​Here's what the inside seam looks like. Some twists may look a little cleaner than others, and I find if you're using a dense yarn like cotton, these twists will puff out more than a wool or acrylic. All of this is hiding on the inside though... so who cares! Here's what the inside looks like with the seam at the top. So although there are a lot of twists on the inside, it's still fairly flat on the inside. Hope you enjoyed this updated tutorial! Thanks for reading and happy crocheting! -Sixel Visit my shop page for more mosaic crochet patterns

Watch this tutorial on my YouTube Channel INTRO TO OVERLAY MOSAIC CROCHET Mosaic crochet is a fun and easy way to create beautifully intricate patterns, all using single crochet (SD) and double crochet (DC) stitches, without having to change colors in the middle of a row. There are two types of mosaic crochet, interlocking and overlay. This tutorial will guide you through the basics of overlay, and get you on your way to following patterns and charts. I’ll also show you how to create secure border stitches, and an easy way to weave in your tail-ends for a clean edge. In overlay mosaic crochet, the design is worked from the front side only, from right to left (or left to right for left-handed crocheters). Each row alternates between two contrasting colors, either A or B. You can use any combination of contrasting colors to create these designs. The mosaic pattern is created by working all SC stitches into the top-back loops of the same row, and dropping down all DC stitches into the front loops of the row below of the same color. This is where the term “overlay” comes from. The DC stitches are covering up the SC stitches from the previous row, allowing you to overlay different colors and create very complex looking patterns. FOUNDATION ROWS In most mosaic crochet patterns, the mosaic design does not start until row 3. You will need to start with 2 SC rows, 1 row in color A, and 1 row in color B, both worked into the top-back loops only. This will give you a foundation to start working your mosaic stitches. Refer to your specific chart pattern to find the appropriate number of chains to start with. The numbered columns on the right and left sides of the chart are color coded with the color you will be crocheting the entire row with, either A or B. This chart starts with color A for row 1 (white), and color B (pink) for row 2. * You will only be reading the symbols on the chart (X’s in this pattern), and not switching colors in the middle. The colors in the center of the chart show you where the DC’s are being dropped down from the row above. This only serves as a reference, and will show you what a finished row looks like after you’ve added the next row in the chart. The chart above shows 17 stitches across. You will also need to add two more for your border stitches. Start your foundation chain with 19 chains ( 17 + 2 ). Chain 1, and SC into the second chain from the hook. SC into the top-back loops for all remaining stitches. You should have 19 SC total. At the end of the row, tighten your last SC. Chain 1, and tighten again. Cut your yarn leaving about a 2-3” tail, and pull the yarn through. Row 1 complete SECURE BORDER STITCHES Because each row starts with a new color, you will be adding border stitches at the beginning and end of each row. The border stitches also help to keep your edges straight, and gives you a clear point along the edge to add a wide finishing border, fringe, or for attaching to another panel. An easy way to secure your next color to the row is to flip the tail into the first loop before starting your border stitch. This locks your tail-end in without having to use any knots. Insert your hook into both loops of the first stitch, and hook your yarn. Pull the yarn through to make a loop on your hook. Hook the tail from the back and pull all the way through the loop. Do not tighten! Insert your hook back into the loop, and begin your first border stitch. BORDER STITCH: Chain 1, SC back into the same stitch. First border stitch completed For Row 2: SC into the top-back loops for all 17 stitches. At the end of the row, add a finishing border stitch. FINISHING BORDER STITCH: SC into both loops, tighten. Chain 1, and tighten again. Cut your yarn leaving about a 2-3” tail, and pull the yarn through. Row 2 Completed ROW 3 All the fun begins on row 3! Looking at the chart, you will be reading each row from right to left. Each box represents a stitch. All DC stitches are marked with an “X” and all SC stitches are blank. All SC stitches will be in the top-back loops of row 2, and all DC stitches will be in the front loops of row 1. Here’s where the first 7 stitches will be placed in this row. Remember to start and end each row with a border stitch. The first stitch in the chart has an “X” indicating a DC. Yarn over and insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch in row 1 after the border stitch. First DC for row 3 completed The next stitch in the chart is also a DC. Add your next DC into the second stitch here. The third stitch in the chart is blank, indicating a SC. Add a SC into the top back loop of the third stitch. SC stitches 3, 4, and 5 completed Follow the chart for the remaining stitches in the row, and finish with a border stitch. When adding DC’s, you will be skipping the stitches behind it from the previous row. The number of stitches at the top of the DC’s should match the number of skipped stitches behind it. This is very important to keep track of, especially when adding long rows with multiple DC’s, or when you get into more advanced special stitches. Row 3 completed ROW 4 Start row 4 with color B, and add a border stitch. Following the chart from right to left, the first 2 stitches are SC, followed by 1 DC, 1 SC, 1 DC, 2 SC. Follow the chart for the remaining stitches in the row, and finish with a border stitch. Row 4 completed ROW 5 Start row 5 with color A, and add a border stitch. Following the chart from right to left, the first 3 stitches are SC, followed by 1 DC, and 4 SC. Follow the chart for the remaining stitches in the row, and finish with a border stitch. Row 5 completed ROW 6 Start row 6 with color B, and add a border stitch. This row has all SC stitches and no DCs. Add 17 SCs across and finish with a border stitch. Row 6 completed ROW 7 Start row 7 with color A, and add a border stitch. (This row has the same sequence of stitches as row 5.) Following the chart from right to left, the first 3 stitches are SC, followed by 1 DC, and 4 SC. Follow the chart for the remaining stitches in the row, and finish with a border stitch. Row 7 completed ROW 8 Start row 8 with color B, and add a border stitch. (This row has the same sequence of stitches as row 4.) Following the chart from right to left, the first 2 stitches are SC, followed by 1 DC, 1 SC, 1 DC. Follow the chart for the remaining stitches in the row, and finish with a border stitch. Row 8 completed ROW 9 Start row 9 with color A, and add a border stitch. (This row has the same sequence of stitches as row 3.) Following the chart from right to left, the first 2 stitches are DC, followed by 3 SC, and 2 DC. Follow the chart for the remaining stitches in the row, and finish with a border stitch. Row 9 completed You can continue the pattern taller by repeating rows 2-9, or finish your sample with row 9. FINISHING THE EDGES The nature of overlay mosaic crochet means you will have tail-ends on the sides. There are many different ways for handling these. You can hide them, wrap them along the edge, add fringe to camouflage them, or weave them into the back. I tend to make a ton of pillows, so the tail-ends are always hidden on the inside! Here I will show you an easy way to weave them into the back, which is best for when you want a clean edge. When working with very short tails, it’s best to weave your needle into the back first, then insert the tail into the eye of the needle. Skip over the border stitch and weave your needle into several stitches of the same color on the back, making sure you’re not sticking into any stitches that show on the front. I like to weave in all of the tails first, then I trim all the excess. This way you’re not switching back and forth between scissors and the needle. Back finished I hope you've enjoyed learning overlay mosaic crochet! There are so many wonderful patterns out there, and I hope you check out some of the patterns I have listed on my website! Links to my Etsy and Ravelry stores through the patterns page. Thanks and happy crocheting! -Sixel

Updated August 1, 2023 Want to make a mosaic crochet bag on a flat oval base, with the exact number of stitches you need for your pattern? Look no further, I have the formula! No more guessing how large to make an oval for a bag. It's easy to make your designs fit exactly where you want them to. With this tutorial, your seam will end up at the center of one side, making it easy to start adding your mosaic pattern directly to the base. You can also use this tutorial to make straps to finish your bag. Oval Construction The oval is constructed around a foundation chain, starting with a round of SC stitches, and DC stitches added for the remaining rounds. Working from the front side only, the oval starts with a half arch, turned to side A (flat with no increases), an arch at the other end, turned to side B (flat with no increases), and finished with the other half of the arch. This tutorial will show you how to create 4 different sized ovals. An oval with 2 DC rounds is good for a narrower or small sized bag, great for books or a tablet. An oval with 3 DC rounds is good for a standard sized handbag, and an oval with 4 rounds is good for a wider bag. You can also create straps using an oval with 1 or 2 DC rounds. The overall size of your oval will depend on your yarn weight and tension. It's best to do some samples to know how wide you would like your base. This example uses a worsted weight cotton yarn. One round measures about 1 1/4" wide, and each round increases by a little less than 1". Chain Count Formula Start with the total number of stitches needed for one side of the bag. Use the multiples listed in the pattern to determine how many stitches per repeat. Minus the number of stitches for the oval rounds (see below.) Oval with 2 DC rounds: minus 11 Oval with 3 DC rounds: minus 17 Oval with 4 DC rounds: minus 23 Patterns with Multiples Plus 1: If you have a pattern that lists multiples plus 1, you'll need to take a look at your chart to see if you can either drop the "plus 1" stitch or keep it in. If the column outside the repeat section doesn't contain any special stitches, and only has SCs and/or DCs, then you can drop the "plus 1" stitch. When crocheting in-the-round you'll only follow the stitches shown in the repeat section. Calculate the total number of stitches for the front of the bag by multiplying the number of stitches in the repeat section only. The design across the seam will look continuous. If the column outside the repeat section does contain special stitches, these can not be split or dropped, so you'll need to calculate the number of stitches for the front of your bag with that extra stitch included. When crocheting in-the-round, you'll see that extra stitch at the seam and the design won't be completely continuous. When crocheting the oval base, you'll also need to remove the very last stitch to make sure your oval has an odd number of stitches. See how to add a DC decrease here: Final Round with No Increases Patterns with Multiples Plus 2: If your pattern lists multiples plus 2, this likely means the design has separate motifs with extra "blank" stitches on the outside of the repeat section to give it space away from the edges. Calculate the total number of stitches for the front of the bag plus 2 stitches. These extra stitches will be added to both sides of the bag, and the design will be centered on both sides. Patterns with Multiples Plus 3: If your pattern lists multiples plus 3, refer to the section above "Patterns with Multiples Plus 1" to determine if you can drop all 3 stitches or if you need to keep them in. If the stitches can't be dropped, calculate the total number of stitches for the front of the bag using multiples plus 2 instead. Then add a DC decrease in the final round as shown here: Final Round with No Increases Making the Oval For this example we will start with a foundation chain of 24. Use the chart above to determine the number of chains for your project. Be sure to note the number of chains in your foundation chain, as you will need to know this number for adding SC and DC rounds later. Half Arch and Side A Start with 2 SC in the 2nd chain from the hook. Begin side A with 1 SC in each chain, 3 less than your foundation chain. (21 sts for this example) Arch and Side B Add 3 SC in the last stitch, turn to side B. Crochet over the tail, 1 SC in each stitch (large hole, both loops) same number of stitches as side A. (21 sts for this example) Half Arch Finish, Start DC Round 1 Add 1 SC in the last stitch (center hole). Slip-stitch into both loops of the 1st stitch after the chain. Chain 2, and 1 DC into the first stitch at the base of the chain. For all stitches in the oval, crochet through both loops. DC Round 1 Half Arch 2 DCs into next 2 stitches. (5 DCs total after chain) DC Round 1 Side A Turn to side A, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain (19 DCs for this example). This will be the same number of stitches on sides A and B for all remaining rounds. Use stitch markers to mark the first and last stitches of the DC rows on sides A and B. This makes it easier to clearly see where to add increases on your arches and half arches. DC Round 1 Arch 2 DCs in next 5 stitches. (10 DCs total) DC Round 1 Side B Turn to side B, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example) DC Round 1 Half Arch Finish 2 DCs in next 2 stitches, 1 DC in last stitch. (5 DCs total) Slip-stitch into the 1st DC stitch after the chain. DC Round 2 Half Arch Chain 2, and 2 DCs into the first stitch at the base of the chain. Add 1 DC, 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs, into the next 4 stitches. (8 DCs total after chain) Turn to side A, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example) DC Round 2 Arch Add the following sequence into the next 5 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs. Repeat the sequence again for the next 5 stitches. (16 DCs total) Turn to side B, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example) DC Round 2 Half Arch Finish Add the following sequence into the next 5 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs. (8 DCs total) Slip-stitch to join to first DC in round. When stopping after Round 2, see section below: Final Round with No Increases DC Round 3 Half Arch Chain 2, and 1 DC into the first stitch at the base of the chain. Add the following sequence into the next 6 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC in next 2 stitches. Add 2 DCs into the last stitch of the arch. (11 DCs total after chain) Turn to side A, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example) DC Round 3 Arch Add the following sequence into the next 15 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC into the next 2 stitches. Add 2 DCs into the last stitch of the arch. (22 DCs total) Turn to side B, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example) DC Round 3 Half Arch Finish Add the following sequence into the next 6 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC in next 2 stitches. Add 2 DCs into the next stitch, and 1 DC into the last stitch (11 DCs total). Slip-stitch to join to first DC in round. When stopping after Round 3, see section below: Final Round with No Increases DC Round 4 Half Arch Chain 2, and 1 DC into the first stitch at the base of the chain. Add the following sequence into the next 8 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC in next 3 stitches. Add 2 DCs into the next stitch and 1 DC in the last stitch of the arch. (14 DCs total after chain) Turn to side A, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example) DC Round 4 Arch Add the following sequence into the next 20 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC into the next 3 stitches. Add 2 DCs in the next stitch and 1 DC in the last stitch of the arch. (28 DCs total) Turn to side B, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example) DC Round 4 Half Arch Finish Add the following sequence into the next 8 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC in next 3 stitches. Add 2 DCs into the next stitch, and 1 DC into the next 2 stitches (14 DCs total). Slip-stitch to join to first DC in round. Final Round with No Increases 3 rounds and 1 round no increases When you've reached the number of rounds for your project, add an additional round of DC's with no increases. Some patterns may call for this to be SC's instead. Start the round with 2 chains, 1 DC into the first stitch at the base of the chain, and continue adding 1 DC in each stitch all the way around. To connect the round, insert your hook into the first DC of the round, and slip-stitch with your new color. (see section below on adding a new color) For Patterns with Multiples Plus 1: On your last round with no increases, add a DC Decrease in the last 2 stitches of the round. This will decrease the number of stitches in the round by 1, leaving you with an odd number for that plus 1 stitch. To add a DC Decrease: In the last 2 stitches of the round, you will be connecting 2 DCs together into 1. Start your DC and work the stitch until you have 2 loops left on your hook (pull through 1 loop, pull through 2 loops, stop). Yarn over, start your next DC in the next stitch and work the stitch until you have 3 loops left on your hook (pull through 1 loop, pull through 2 loops, stop). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. Adding a New Color To start the next round with a new color, join the last round from the back. Pull up a wide loop and remove your hook. Insert your hook from the back under both loops of the first stitch in the round after the chain. It's a lot easier to get your hook in from the back, so let's turn it around so we're looking it from the inside. Insert your hook and place the loop around the hook. Pull the yarn to tighten it around the hook. Slip stitch. Turn the circle around so you're looking at the front again. Cast on with your next color and slip stitch. Pull the yarn from the previous color to tighten. Be sure the loop is between the hook and the knot. Chain 1. Your first stitch to begin round 2 will be directly below your hook. This round is all SC stitches in the top back loops to the end. Crochet over the tail. At the end of round 2, join and switch colors just as we did for round 1: Pull up a loop, insert your hook under both loops of the first stitch from the back, tighten the loop on the hook, and slip stitch. Slip stitch with your new color, tighten both strands and chain 1. Now we're ready to begin round 3. For this round we will begin following our mosaic crochet chart. Your first stitch will be directly below your hook, or 1 row below in the same color. Thanks for reading and happy crocheting! Visit my shop page for more mosaic crochet patterns

Use the chart below to invert special stitches in mosaic crochet, so you can crochet charts upside down. This is useful for when you're working on a design that is worked top-down, or for creating mirrored images. For detailed instructions on special stitches and how to read this chart, please watch my YouTube tutorial "Inverted Special Stitches for Mosaic Crochet". These stitches only apply to Sixel Design patterns. If you're trying to invert special stitches in a pattern from another designer, these symbols will be different. When inverting a pattern with bobble stitches, move those stitches down 2 rows. Not all patterns with bobble stitches can be inverted, and may appear different when upside down. If you're having trouble inverting any patterns, please feel free to reach out to me with any questions! Download a PDF of the chart here: Visit my shop page for more mosaic crochet patterns

How to use all your tail-ends to create striped, variegated and colorful tassels and fringe. We've all been there... You've spent days, weeks, (and even more!) working on a mosaic crochet design and finally have to ask the inevitable question: HOW DO I DEAL WITH ALL THESE ENDS?! I've managed to avoid this question for months by creating mostly pillows where all the ends are hidden inside! LOL! But, seriously, while making any mosaic crochet design, those tails may become a little daunting. Adding a border around your piece to hide or cover all of the ends can sometimes be frustrating and very time consuming, and I'm here to say it's OK to embrace the fringe! Some designs can even benefit from a little extra frill, or another pop of color! This tutorial will show you how to add easy variegated, striped and solid color fringe to your mosaic crochet projects. THE BASICS Cut pieces of yarn that measure a little more than double the length of your shortest tail end. Cut one piece to the desired length, and use it as a guide to cut all your pieces the same length. They don't have to be perfect because you'll be trimming them all later once they're attached. Make sure your border stitches are locked in, either using a secure border stitch, or by tying your tail ends together before you start. In order for the fringe to be even on both sides, you’ll want to add 2 more “tails” to the end of your very first single crochet row. Insert your hook into the base of the very first border stitch. Pull your yarn through half way to create a loop. Hook the tails and pull them through the loop. Tighten the tassel by pulling the tails. Keep in mind you'll want to keep the tails as even as possible. Now you're ready to get started! Each tassel is made the same way: Insert your hook between the border stitches from underneath, make a loop half way with the yarn, pull the tails through the loop and tighten by pulling the tails. Here are some fun options for easily transforming your tail ends into beautiful fringe: VARIEGATED FRINGE To create variegated fringe, you’ll be adding tassels between every other border stitch (color A on the left and color B on the right), using both colors for the tassels. Start by inserting your hook between the first and second border stitches. Make sure one color is on the right and the other on the left of your hook: Add strips of both color A and B, and pull through half way to make a loop: Now take the tails from the right and left, add them to the ends. These will be added to this tassel. Complete the tassel by pulling all the tails including the ones from the sides through the loop: Pull the short tails evenly to tighten. On this tassel you will have 4 color A and 3 color B ends in the tassel. The rest of the row will have 3 and 3. Your next tassel will be between color A and color B tails in the border stitch. Include both of those tails into the tassel. Continue across the rest of the row. Once you're finished, trim your tassels with a sharp scissor to the same length. STRIPED FRINGE To create striped fringe, you’ll be adding tassels between every border stitch. Each tail that you add in will be the same color. You can either add 1 strip for each border stitch (as seen above), or 2 strips of the same color in each border stitch for a fuller fringe. Start by inserting your hook between the first and second border stitches. Make sure one color is on the right and the other on the left of your hook. For striped fringe you will only be working with one color at a time, one in each border stitch. As with the variegated fringe, you'll be adding in a tail end. This time, only add the same color as the tassel. For the next tassel, insert your hook into the very next border stitch and add the same color. As with the first tassel, include the tail of the same color into the tassel. Pull the short ends to tighten. Once you're finished, trim your tassels with a sharp scissor to the same length. SOLID COLOR FRINGE This is my personal favorite, because it gives me the opportunity to add a whole new color! You can still see the tails from the mosaic rows, but most of the color is camouflaged by a solid fringe of another color. Adding a slip stitch row on top of the border stitches using the same color as the fringe also helps incorporate the new color with a nice detailed edge. To create a solid color fringe, you’ll be adding tassels between every other border stitch (color A on the left and color B on the right), just like in the variegated fringe above. Insert your hook between the two colors of the border stitches. Using 2 or more strips of the new color, hook and pull through half way to make a loop. And now add color A and color B of the mosaic into the group of tails and pull through the loop. Pull the shorter ends to tighten. The mosaic tails should be behind the new tassel and less visible. If they're not you can loosen the tassel and arrange the tails to be in the back. Continue to add tassels to the rest of the row. Trim your fringe with a sharp scissor to the same length. You can now add a slip stitch row on top of the border stitches using the color of the tassels. Weave the ends of the slip stitch into the tassels on both ends to hide them. Be sure to check out my other free tutorials and my mosaic crochet patterns available in my shop and etsy store. Thanks for reading my fringe tutorial! Happy crocheting!